FASHION
FOR
YOUTH
THE
FASHION
FOR
THE
YOUTH
BELGIUM, THE BIRTHPLACE OF FASHION DESIGNERS LIKE THE (ANTWERP SIX), MARGIELA, RAF SIMONS, AND KRIS VAN ASSCHE, CONTINUES TO BE A BREEDING GROUND FOR FASHION'S MOST INNOVATIVE MINDS. AMONG THESE LUMINARIES STANDS GLENN MARTENS - OVER THE PAST THREE YEARS, MARTENS HAS RAPIDLY ASCENDED TO HEIGHTS, LEAVING AN INDELIBLE MARK ON THE INDUSTRY.
THIS IS THE GLENN MARTENS TRAJECTORY.
With various internet nicknames like "Denim Da*dy" (among others), he's become the hottest designer in the business. Martens has achieved great success, turning around Diesel from the brink of bankruptcy, revamping Y/Project, and even designing couture for fashion enfant terrible, Jean Paul Gaultier.
"Martens is often likened to the Margiela of this generation. His journey, from a decade in the industry to becoming a household name, is nothing short of remarkable."
Born and raised in Bruges, the gothic capital of Belgium, Martens initially studied interior architecture. However, he felt there was something more he needed to explore, leading him to the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. With just a handful of sketches and no background in fashion, he secured a spot and graduated at the top of his class, just onwards and upwards from then on.
YOHAN SERFATY
Y/Project, to those unfamiliar with its history, might seem like Glenn Martens' personal fashion brand, and he certainly treats it as such. The Y/Project of yesteryears stood in stark contrast to the Y/Project we're familiar with today. Imagine a complete 180-degree turn – it was all about dark, dystopian, artisanal fashion. Think lots of leather, svelte silhouettes, and a color palette that often leaned towards the somber. While it had its own allure, the challenge was that this niche was already well-represented by renowned designers like Ann Demeulemeester and Rick Owens. To encapsulate the brand's unique style, Glenn once referred to its original designer, Yohan Serfaty, as the "Tim Burton of fashion."
In 2013, Glenn took the helm at Y/Project as Creative Director following the unfortunate passing of Yohan Serfaty, shouldering the weighty responsibility of continuing an already-established legacy , especially taking control of a brand in mourning. However, Martens didn't merely imitate his predecessor. He cleverly initiated a gradual transition, starting with experimenting with leather, a defining element of the brand's identity. Slowly but surely, he diversified the brand's visual language by exploring a broader color palette, abstract silhouettes, complex patterns, and fabric experimentations. The result was a complete change in the brand's language. Y/Project became known for individuality, experimentation, and a touch of irony. This transformation speaks to the importance of expression in fashion, which is often overused but genuinely significant in Y/Project's context. The clothes Martens designs are characterized by their expressiveness, multi-layered construction, and perceptual depth.
Just the right amount of tongue-in-cheek
"FASHION IS ALWAYS SUPPOSED TO BE FUN"
YOHAN SERFATY// FOUNDER Y/PROJECT
A VISUAL REPRESENTATION OF Y/PROJECT'S EVOLUTION BEGINS IN A DARK AND DYSTOPIAN STYLE, GRADUALLY TRANSFORMING INTO A DECONSTRUCTED, ASYMMETRIC, COLORFUL, AND FUN AESTHETIC.
YOHAN SERFATY'S Y/PROJECT//
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LEFT: GLENN MARTENS GRADUATE COLLECTION FROM THE ROYAL ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS- + INITIAL COLLECTIONS AT HIS NAMESAKE LABEL THAT RAN FOR THREE SEASON UNTIL 2013
Martens approaches fashion with irony. Surprising people along the way. His designs are like well-crafted puzzles, striking a balance between being stylishly commercial and creatively audacious. He's the tightrope walker of the fashion world, daring to challenge the limits of what clothing can be. Clothes are supposed to be beautiful, or as is said- left to the perceiver.
His view of beauty springs from his Belgian roots, a place where history has often been tumultuous, and aesthetics take on a mysterious air. In Belgium, beauty often resides in the most unexpected corners, and forging one's identity becomes a compelling endeavor in a world where established norms have been repeatedly stripped away. Here, individuality takes on heightened value.
His creations aren't just clothes; they're artistic expressions, celebrating the power of being yourself in a world that thrives on innovation and originality. It's marked by surprise and delight.
Glenn's fashion is pure fun, no compromises. Everything he creates has its own identity. It is vastly fun to look at. It is transformative. It has moods . He feeds into fashion without filtering on expression and excessive branding, It's straightforward but, in technical terms, not about branding and screaming logos. Broadly, It's the individuality, the unfiltered self-expression that defines Y/Project, not the logo, materials, or visual language.
MARTENS' IMPACT ISN'T JUST IN THE TREND HE FOLLOWS; IT'S IN THOSE HE CREATES.
During the lockdown, in 2020, Glenn Martens made quite a lot of noise in the fashion world. His new role as creative director of Diesel, a brand on the brink of bankruptcy, caught everyone's attention and further pushed Y/Project into the spotlight. By 2022, Glenn had become one of the busiest designers in the industry, rubbing shoulders with the likes of Kim Jones and Jonathan Anderson. Not only did he have to create two collections each year for Diesel and Y/Project, but he was also invited to design couture( a first feat ) for none other than Jean Paul Gaultier, expanding his abilities as a designer.
DIESEL (Since 2020)
In the glamourous days of the '90s, Diesel enjoyed a meteoric rise to stardom, only to plummet to the edge of bankruptcy due to overzealous expansion. Despite several desperate measures, including partnerships with emerging brands like Hood By Air, A-Cold-Wall, and Y/Project, the brand failed to recapture its former glory.
With Diesel's finances hanging by a thread, it needed someone who could not only resonate with its evolving audience but also embrace its rich legacy and unapologetic authenticity. The best choice was Glenn. With his own ideals, matches Diesel's energy. Over the course of three short years, the duo of Glenn and Renzo Russo managed to resurrect Diesel's fortunes, once again making it the talk of the town.
His expertise in denim, along with his design language, made him a perfect fit for Diesel's resurgence. Martens emphasized transparency and sustainability in his work, aligning with the brand's legendary 80s and 90s era.
Before Y/Project, Martens collaborated with Bruno Pieters on HonestBy, a label celebrated for its transparent approach to design. To advance sustainability, transparency is key, and Martens carries this philosophy into Diesel. Garments are accompanied by QR codes that provide sourcing details, and the brand repurposes leftover scraps for store installations. The brand's denim, a cornerstone of its identity, is recycled to its last stitch, known as "REHAB DENIM" . The "DIESEL LIBRARY" champions evergreen pieces created using responsible methods and designs that transcend transient fashion trends.
His impact stretches beyond the fabric of clothing, to commentary and community-building. He's not just about fashion; he's about connections. His marketing prowess, honed from Diesel's illustrious past, adds a shock factor that keeps the brand in the spotlight.
Martens' ability to revitalize Diesel demonstrates not only his creative vision but also his awareness of the brand's legacy. Diesel's success in the 90s was due in part to its groundbreaking marketing and campaigns. Martens continues this legacy, creating a buzz after every Diesel show with discussions on platforms like TikTok, Instagram, and Twitter.
Another aspect of Martens' approach is accessibility. He makes fashion inclusive by opening his shows to the public and offering free passes to fashion students. In doing so, he has built a community around his work, connecting with fashion enthusiasts and enthusiasts of all kinds.
During his tenure at Diesel, Martens has steered the brand in a new direction, sending a clear message with campaigns centered on themes like "Safe Sex." He adds shock value to Diesel's reach, introducing provocative installations, balloon inflatables, and even distributing free condoms to emphasize social responsibility. Martens' approach to denim is unparalleled, continuously exploring techniques that require time to grasp fully. The fits are meticulously designed, techniques thoroughly explored, a nod to the godfather of denim, Adriano Goldschmied, who introduced innovations like stonewash denim, stretched denim, and tencel-softened denim. The transformation of the Diesel brand is clever and straightforward, aimed at capturing the attention of the mass-driven Gen Z audience. The brand leverages connections with prominent figures in the fashion world, sending Diesel products to influential individuals. An example that comes to mind is the era of Kanye and Julia Fox, featuring the "first date" where Kanye gifted Julia Fox racks of Diesel clothing. Everything about Diesel is meticulously orchestrated, from pre-production to presentation value, leaving no gaps. Y/Project, on the other hand, gives Martens the creative freedom to experiment, something that working with a commercial brand like Diesel may not always provide in terms of wearability.
Diesel offers commercial success and a broad range, while Y/Project allows Martens to showcase his excess technique and design finesse, offering glimpses of his personality.
Martens' language is one of unsaid intentions, centered on longevity, destruction, distortion, and demonstration. It's an approach that refuses to be confined within rigid boundaries, constantly pushing the envelope of creativity and expression. stories often arise from the most unexpected beginnings.
"FINDING BEAUTY IN THE LESS OBVIOUS"
RENZO RUSSO'S DIESEL (ESTABLISHED 1978)
ORIGINAL NAME "MOLTEX"
BY Adriano Goldschmied "GODFATHER OF DENIM"
RENZO RUSSO GOT SOLE OWNERSHIP IN 1985
THE ORIGIN OF THE NAME COMES FROM THE OIL CRISIS// HOW DIESEL WAS THE AFFORDABLE CHOICE JUST LIKE THEIR PRODUCT OFFERINGS.
POST 1991 "FOR SUCCESSFUL LIVING- TACKLING SOCIAL ISSUES THROUGH HUMOR AS A FORM OF MARKETING
IMAGE GALLERY
Martens approaches fashion with irony. Surprising people along the way. His designs are like well-crafted puzzles, striking a balance between being stylishly commercial and creatively audacious. He's the tightrope walker of the fashion world, daring to challenge the limits of what clothing can be. Clothes are supposed to be beautiful, or as is said- left to the perceiver.
His view of beauty springs from his Belgian roots, a place where history has often been tumultuous, and aesthetics take on a mysterious air. In Belgium, beauty often resides in the most unexpected corners, and forging one's identity becomes a compelling endeavor in a world where established norms have been repeatedly stripped away. Here, individuality takes on heightened value.
His creations aren't just clothes; they're artistic expressions, celebrating the power of being yourself in a world that thrives on innovation and originality. It's marked by surprise and delight.
Glenn's fashion is pure fun, no compromises. Everything he creates has its own identity. It is vastly fun to look at. It is transformative. It has moods . He feeds into fashion without filtering on expression and excessive branding, It's straightforward but, in technical terms, not about branding and screaming logos. Broadly, It's the individuality, the unfiltered self-expression that defines Y/Project, not the logo, materials, or visual language.
MARTENS' IMPACT ISN'T JUST IN THE TREND HE FOLLOWS; IT'S IN THOSE HE CREATES.
During the lockdown, in 2020, Glenn Martens made quite a lot of noise in the fashion world. His new role as creative director of Diesel, a brand on the brink of bankruptcy, caught everyone's attention and further pushed Y/Project into the spotlight. By 2022, Glenn had become one of the busiest designers in the industry, rubbing shoulders with the likes of Kim Jones and Jonathan Anderson. Not only did he have to create two collections each year for Diesel and Y/Project, but he was also invited to design couture( a first feat ) for none other than Jean Paul Gaultier, expanding his abilities as a designer.
DIESEL (Since 2020)
In the glamourous days of the '90s, Diesel enjoyed a meteoric rise to stardom, only to plummet to the edge of bankruptcy due to overzealous expansion. Despite several desperate measures, including partnerships with emerging brands like Hood By Air, A-Cold-Wall, and Y/Project, the brand failed to recapture its former glory.
With Diesel's finances hanging by a thread, it needed someone who could not only resonate with its evolving audience but also embrace its rich legacy and unapologetic authenticity. The best choice was Glenn. With his own ideals, matches Diesel's energy. Over the course of three short years, the duo of Glenn and Renzo Russo managed to resurrect Diesel's fortunes, once again making it the talk of the town.
His expertise in denim, along with his design language, made him a perfect fit for Diesel's resurgence. Martens emphasized transparency and sustainability in his work, aligning with the brand's legendary 80s and 90s era.
Before Y/Project, Martens collaborated with Bruno Pieters on HonestBy, a label celebrated for its transparent approach to design. To advance sustainability, transparency is key, and Martens carries this philosophy into Diesel. Garments are accompanied by QR codes that provide sourcing details, and the brand repurposes leftover scraps for store installations. The brand's denim, a cornerstone of its identity, is recycled to its last stitch, known as "REHAB DENIM" . The "DIESEL LIBRARY" champions evergreen pieces created using responsible methods and designs that transcend transient fashion trends.
His impact stretches beyond the fabric of clothing, to commentary and community-building. He's not just about fashion; he's about connections. His marketing prowess, honed from Diesel's illustrious past, adds a shock factor that keeps the brand in the spotlight.
Martens' ability to revitalize Diesel demonstrates not only his creative vision but also his awareness of the brand's legacy. Diesel's success in the 90s was due in part to its groundbreaking marketing and campaigns. Martens continues this legacy, creating a buzz after every Diesel show with discussions on platforms like TikTok, Instagram, and Twitter.
Another aspect of Martens' approach is accessibility. He makes fashion inclusive by opening his shows to the public and offering free passes to fashion students. In doing so, he has built a community around his work, connecting with fashion enthusiasts and enthusiasts of all kinds.
During his tenure at Diesel, Martens has steered the brand in a new direction, sending a clear message with campaigns centered on themes like "Safe Sex." He adds shock value to Diesel's reach, introducing provocative installations, balloon inflatables, and even distributing free condoms to emphasize social responsibility. Martens' approach to denim is unparalleled, continuously exploring techniques that require time to grasp fully. The fits are meticulously designed, techniques thoroughly explored, a nod to the godfather of denim, Adriano Goldschmied, who introduced innovations like stonewash denim, stretched denim, and tencel-softened denim. The transformation of the Diesel brand is clever and straightforward, aimed at capturing the attention of the mass-driven Gen Z audience. The brand leverages connections with prominent figures in the fashion world, sending Diesel products to influential individuals. An example that comes to mind is the era of Kanye and Julia Fox, featuring the "first date" where Kanye gifted Julia Fox racks of Diesel clothing. Everything about Diesel is meticulously orchestrated, from pre-production to presentation value, leaving no gaps. Y/Project, on the other hand, gives Martens the creative freedom to experiment, something that working with a commercial brand like Diesel may not always provide in terms of wearability.
Diesel offers commercial success and a broad range, while Y/Project allows Martens to showcase his excess technique and design finesse, offering glimpses of his personality.
Martens' language is one of unsaid intentions, centered on longevity, destruction, distortion, and demonstration. It's an approach that refuses to be confined within rigid boundaries, constantly pushing the envelope of creativity and expression. stories often arise from the most unexpected beginnings.
"FINDING BEAUTY IN THE LESS OBVIOUS"
GLENN MARTENS' EVOLUTION AT Y/PROJECT
DIESEL
DIESEL
DIESEL
RENZO RUSSO'S DIESEL (ESTABLISHED 1978)
ORIGINAL NAME "MOLTEX"
BY Adriano Goldschmied "GODFATHER OF DENIM"
RENZO RUSSO GOT SOLE OWNERSHIP IN 1985
THE ORIGIN OF THE NAME COMES FROM THE OIL CRISIS// HOW DIESEL WAS THE AFFORDABLE CHOICE JUST LIKE THEIR PRODUCT OFFERINGS.
POST 1991 "FOR SUCCESSFUL LIVING- TACKLING SOCIAL ISSUES THROUGH HUMOR AS A FORM OF MARKETING
FOR
SUCCESSFUL
LIVING
FOR
SUCCESSFUL
LIVING
FOR
SUCCESSFUL
LIVING
FOR
SUCCESSFUL
LIVING
FOR
SUCCESSFUL
LIVING
DIESEL RUNWAY
