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RICK OWENS
[Richard Saturnino Owens]
'American
Drkshdw, Rickowenslilies and Hunrickowens+ Furniture
established: 1994
1st Show: SS02
THE DARK LORD OF FASHION
MIUCCIA PRADA
[Miuccia Bianchi Prada] 'Italian
Mime Politics Fashion
UNIFORMS
PRADA GROUP: Creative Director MIU MIU
1st Show (Prada): 1988
1st Show (MiuMiu): 1993
MARTIN MARGIELA
'Belgian
Deconstructionist ; the art of the unfinished
MAISON IN SECRECY
Asst. to JPG till 1988
[namesake label] THE WHITE LABEL
1997-2003: Creative Director Hermès
Last show" Spring 2009
Left fashion: 2009
KARL [Karl Otto Lagerfeld] 'German Linguist Photographer Filmmaker CHANEL1982 - 2019 CHLOE FENDI
Most grand presentations Busiest/Work Ethic
Namesake label:1984 (later sold to Tommy H. in 2005) Pet: Choupette
Redefined historic brand codes
At Rest 19 February 2019
JIL SANDER
'German
[Heidemarie Jiline Sander]
Minimalist established: 1968, Collection 1973.
1999:Prada acquisition
2000: Jil leaves due to disagreements, turbulent heirarchy post her departure
Namesake label head by-
Luke and Lucie Miller
PETER DO
'Vietnamese
LVMH 2014, FIT, SUBTLE LUXURY Worked wth Phoebe Philo
Namesake label" 2018 Alongside friends
1st Show NYFW: 2021
2023: Creative Director Helmut Lang
DEMNA
'Georgian
[Demna Gvasalia]
Irony Humour Exaggeration
Worked at Margiela:2009-2012
Founded Vetements
(French"Clothes) with Guram Gvasalia: 2014
2015: Joined Balenciaga .
2019:Leaves Vetements
2021:Brings back Balenciaga couture in it's true essence after 50 years
THE OLSEN TWINS
'American
{Mary-Kate and Ashley Fuller Olsen} THE ROW Suiting Street Coutue Flagbearers of Quiet Luxury
established: 2005, purpose:to create a perfect tshirt for themselves
The Row offers exceptional quality, easy flowing luxurious clothing
JUNYA WATANABE
'Japanese
protégé of Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo
“monozukuri” is formed from the words “mono” (thing) and “zukuri” (to make, to manufacture, to grow) The creator creates and only the creations matter
established: 1992(CDG Umbrella)
Paris Collection 1993.
Ingenious Patternmaker, Techno utility and Punk creations
Dries Van Noten
'Belgian
[Baron Dries Van Noten ]
Member of the Antwerp Six established: 1986,
Eccentric aqnd whimsical print genius, Tailoring and layering, Menswear extraordinaire
Richard Stark
'American
Capentry Craftsmanship Chrome Hearts established: 1988 with Leonard Kamhout and John Bowman, Later Laurie Lynn
Chopper chicks in Zombietown
Sterling Silver + Leather Goods
JUN TAKAHASHI
'Japanese
[Known as the Godfather of Japanese Streetwear]
CULT CULTURE CINEMA
Rebellion and deconstruction
A new idea of beauty and romance in conventional streetwear Founder[UNDERCOVER] established: 1993
1st Show:1994
Vivienne Westwood
'British
[Dame Vivienne Isabel Westwood] 1941-2022
GODMOTHER OF PUNK
Religion Politics Sex "Underwear as Outerwear" Trash Art, Abstract ideas from the 17th-18th century
Clothing Store with Malcolm McLaren Let It Rock, in 1971 renamed SEX in 1974
1st Show: 1981 called "PIRATES"
Vivienne Westwood by Andreas Kronthaler (Partner designs under the brand's name) Since Fall 2016
Issey Miyake
'Japanese
[Miyake Kazumaru]
1938-2022
Dancing + Graphic Design
Technology Movement Fluidity Hope Surprise utmost Joy with clothingThe designer behoind Steve Jobs's infamous black turtlenecks and Sony factory uniforms
Miyake Design Studio established: 1970
Founder[PLEATS PLEASE] :1993
Helmut Lang
'Austrian
[Peter Scepka] Now Artist
MINIMALIST ESSENTIALIST
Bridged Literal Streetwear and High Fashion, Advertising and Collaborative genius
Combined Fashion+Art+Design
The Designer who destroyed his archives
New Uniforms
established: 1977
1st Show:1986
Acquired by Prada; 2005
Departure from Fashion:2005
DONATELLA VERSACE
'Italian [Donatella Francesca Versace]
Socialite Entrepreneur Model
established: 1978(By Gianni Versace)
Donatella was appointed head of the brand Versus in 1994 and took over Versace post Gianni's death in 1997.
2018 Michael Kors(Capri Holdings) acquired the brand with the Versace family receiving 150 Million of purchase price in shares of capri holdings
Haider Ackermann
'Colombian
Ingenius Drapery a master of silhouettes
Namesake Label:2001.
(Fun Fact:Haider was one of the top students at the Royal Academy but was expelled in 1997 for not submitting assignments on time)
Berluti:2016
Guest Designer for Jean Paul in 2023
OLIVIER THEYSKENS
'Belgian
{DEMICOUTURE}
Gothic Romance [famously called the Gothic Prince of Fashion]
Entered the industry in 1997 Reopened namesake label in 2016
Rochas: 2002-2006
Nina Ricci: 2006-10
Theory:2010-2014
SRULI RECHT
'Icelandic
{The most unconventional techniques in fashion}
“I was once asked to make pendant earrings out of someone’s testicles.” tells you enough
Infamously cut his own stomach skin to make a ring "Forget me Knot"
Credited for introducing Translucent Leather
Since 2011
OLIVIER ROUSTEING
'French
[Youngest Creative Director in Paris since YSL]
Creative Director of Balmain since 2011- Took over at 25 years old
Known for his opulent and Bold designs, biker pants, use of gold, grandeur embroidery and
ABUNDANT DESIGN APPROACH- Changed the trajectory of Balmain
CRAIG GREEN
'British
Innovaton and storytelling in menswear
Established in 2012-1st Solo collection: 2015
Gained momentum post his Graduate collection from Central Saint Martins
MATERIAL+CROSSING LIMITS OF FUNCTIONALITY+ FASHION MEETS EXPERIMENTAL ART
NICHOLAS GHESQUIERE
'French-Belgian
[The Revival of Balenciaga(1997-2012) ]
Head of Louis Vuitton Womenswear since 2013
Craftsmanship+Tailoring + Inspired by the 70s and credited for his originality in design
HUSSEIN CHALAYAN
'British-Cypriot-Turkish
[Science Art and Fashion Mix]
Established his studio in 1994- Graduate collection called "Tangent Flows" included decomposed rusted clothing with iron fillings.
Known for his exceptional innovation and groundbreaking intellect in design. Lauded for many now iconic ideas like the Table dress, dissolving clothing, laser beams in clothes and more. Synonymous with performance art, Urban architecture and conceptually and socially driven design
GLENN MARTENS
'Belgian
[Often called the Margiela of this Generation]
Creative Director: Y/Project, Diesel
Founded his own brand in 2012, soon after joined Yohan Serfaty of Y/Project only to take the reigns after Yohan's untimely passing and transforming the Rick Owensesque dystopian Y/P to what it's known for today. Known for his Genius with Denim , and his ability to balance Creative and Commercial.
Guest Designed Jean Paul Gaultier Couture - Spring 2022
CCP 'Austrian
[Carol Christian Poell]
DARING+ DESIGNS THAT STIMULATE YOUR MIND
Leather Making Vegan Cult Designer
Since 1995
Unimaginable Materials, Animal Hide, taxidermy, Teeth, Hair Blood are some examples of Poell's unconventional design approach.
NON CONFORMIST + EXCLUSIVE + SECRECY+ INDUSTRILIZED APPROACH TO HIS SKILL
Most Famous Presentation SS2004, Models, like Dead Bodies floated down Naviglio Grande, entitled
"Mainstream, Downstream"
ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
'Belgian
[Ann Verhelst]
THE DARK ROMANTICIST OF FASHION +A PART OF THE ANTWERP SIX
1985:Established 1991:1st show 2013: Departure
2020: Claudio Antonioli Bought the company and marked the return of Ann Demeulemeester as an Advisory director
Following which Sebastien Meunier took over transforming the Grunge-Bohemian brand to a refined classically beautiful language.
Punk Rebellion with Dark Femininity
Entered the world of ceramics and porcelain post leaving "Ann Demeulemeester Serax"
RAF SIMONS 'Belgian
[Raf Jan Simons]
Known for transforming brands- DIOR, JIL SANDER, CALVIN KLEIN AND MOST RECENTLY PRADA. Youth and cultural design references
Furniture Designer, Margiela and Helmut Lang influenced
Interned at Walter Van Bierendonck and attended the Margiela Spring 1990 Show which made him take a turn towards fashion designing
1995-2023: The Raf Simons Line
2005-2012:Jil Sander
2012-2015:Dior
2016-2018: Calvin Klein
2020- current: Prada
GRAPHIC DESIGN ANDROGYNY YOUTH CULTURE REFERENTIAL MUSIC DESIGNS
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
'British
[Lee Alexander McQueen] 1969-2010
"THE GREATEST SHOWMAN"
The Shocking Performer of Fashion
Alchemist
Clothing that made you think, taboo, intellectual, Tackled Religious, Political, and Social issues
1992: Saville Row tailor at Anderson and Shepherd Rumoured to have embroidered 'I am a Cunt" into the lining of the suit for the Prince of Wales
Established 1992: When Isabella Blow(Fashion Editor credited for discovering McQueen) bought out his entire 1992 collection 'JACK THE RIPPER'
Givenchy: 1996-2001
2010: Spring 2010 was "Plato's Atlantis was Alexander's last collection
YOHJI YAMAMOTO
'Japanese
THE MASTER TAILOR
Anti Fashion / Non Traditionalist / Non Conformist / Beauty is imperfection
1972: Yohji Yamamoto first started designing clothes
1977:First RTW collection in Tokyo
1981: First collection in Paris (same year as his contemporary Rei Kawakubo // Masters of Anti Fashion)
Body of fabric in unconventional layers for all
"Avant Garde Tailoring"
WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK
'Belgian
Sex and Pleasure//Subversive
WVB VS SEX
Headed Fashion Design department at the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp until 2022
Part of the Antwerp Six
Established:1983
Graphically strong, visually communicative, evocative clothing, "ADVOCATE OF SAFE SEX"
Wild and Lethal Trash[W<] : 1993-1999
DISRUPTOR//CONVERSATIONS OF GENDER AND BEAUTY
REI KAWAKUBO
'Japanese
[Comme des Garçons]
コム・デ・ギャルソン
(Komu de Gyaruson) "like boys" in French.
WABI SABI: IMPERFECTION
1969: Comme des Garcons
Anti Fashion Genius, Questioning relationship between clothes and the body- Established Dover Street Market with husband Adrian Joffe in 2004
After starting as a freelance stylist in 1967,then established CDG
Paris Debut in 1981, disrupted fashion scene in Paris along with Yohji Yamamoto
Most famous collection Body Meets Dress–Dress Meets Body, for Spring 1997
Championed many Notable designers like Junya Watanabe and Noir Kei Ninomiya
THIERRY MUGLER
'French
[Manfred Thierry Mugler 1945-2022]
AVANT GARDE THEATRICS IN COUTURE ARCHITECTURAL CHOREOGRAPHY
1973 :Mugler
Retired officially in 2002
A champion for inclusivity and diversity "Fashion is beautiful, 3-D art on a human being. But it wasn't enough, which is why I went on to create in other ways.
PHARRELL WILLIAMS
'American
[Pharrell Lanscilo Williams // Rapper, Creative Director of Louis Vuitton]
THE TALK OF 2023
Successor to Virgil Abloh
Connected to LV collaboratively since 2004- Streetwear // popularized BAPE in the fashion scene
HEDI SLIMANE
'French
[THE BRAND TRANSFORMATOR]
Known for his distinct design language and transforming whichever brand he goes to.
Photographer
ROCKER CHIC// THE SKINNY SILHOUETTE UNAPOLOGETICALLY HIMSELF
Youth and Music
Responsible for Yves Saint Laurent to become Saint Laurent
CELINE: 2018- present
DIOR HOMME: 2000-2007
SAINT LAURENT:2012-2016
Saint Laurent Menswear: 1996-2000
MATTHEW M WILLIAMS
'American
1017 ALYX 9SM
Creative Director Givenchy
2015: 1017 ALYX 9SM
2020: Givenchy
2010: #BEEN #TRILL DJ collective alongside Heron Preston, Virgil Abloh, Justin Saunders, the mysterious YWP and Florencia Galarza
Matthew Williams's Stage Name "PRETTY BLANCO"
Worked with Kanye West and Lady Gaga in the beginning of his career that helped his rise to fame
Luxury Streetwear pioneer// Skate culture// Industrialist clothing//Military and Utility
JACQUEMUS
'French
[Simon Porte Jacquemus]
2009: Started his brand at 19// Named after his mother's maiden name to honour her memory
2011: Worked at the CDG store to finance his label
The spirit of Southern France// Child Like joyful energy in design// softer approach to concepts of deconstruction
Rose to fame post 2015 after winning a special prize at the LVMH prize and after their 2018 collection was taken on by most industry retailers.
known for his brilliant art direction and exhibitional approach + unique locations for fashion presentations (Lavender Fields, Palace of Versailles, Camargue salt flats)
AZZEDINE ALAïA
'Tunisian
[1935-2017]
Currently creatively head by Pieter Miulier
Beauty in sculpturally crafted silhouettes
Couturier and Shoes designer known for doing everything on his own terms
BRUTAL HONESTY// INDEPENDENT DESIGN APPROACH
1980:Presented first Ready To Wear collection
Alaia was inspired by his twin sister's style , after her passing in 1992 Azzedine took a hiatus from mainstream fashion till 2011
Accentuated a woman's silhouette, empowering sensually.
MARTNE ROSE
'British Jamaican
Menswear Prodigy
Champion of Diversity
Established namesake label in 2007
Bringing the ordinary forward, complex approach of dailywear silhouettes Bringing different people in fashion together
WORKWEAR// RETRO PUNK//TECHNICAL FUNCTIONALITY
Worked with Demna for his Balenciaga debut in 2015 (Martine Rose's influence is highly visible in that collection)
Sneaker Monarch//First Creative director of Clarks-2023
PHOEBE PHILO
'British
Redefined the definition of luxury for women
CELINE: 2008-2018
CHLOE:1991-2006 // 2001-2006(CD)
Expecting her namesake label to drop by the end of the year
Practical luxury//Minimal and subtle // clean'' simplicity is the keynote to elegance//
Known to have inspired Peter Do, Daniel Lee and more
DSQUARED2
'Canadian\
[Dean and Dan Caten]
Radio Jockeys, Businessmen and Founders of Italian brand Dsquared2
Chaotic sexiness, Ironic, Edgy and whimsical, not to be taken seriously
Established:1994
MICHELE LAMY
'Alegerian French
Artist, Boxer, Collector, Curator
Rick Owens's wife // CoFounder Owenscorp
Known for her unconventional distinctive persona
Backed Gareth Pugh's label:2006
LAMYLAND: HER OWN WORLD
NOMAD// ENIGMA
Restaurateur+ Designer Owenscorp
KIKO KOSTADINOV
'Bulgarian British
Contemporary workwear// material fabrication// Menswear// Referential designs significant culturallry// Books and Movies // Military workwear
MA Collection Central Saint Martins: 2016
Appointed as CD for Mackintosh 0001
Womenswear in 2018: Head by Twins Laura and Deanna Fanning, Contrasting mens and womenswear
Stussy Asics collabs
Worked with Aitor Throup in the beginning
JONATHAN ANDERSON
'Irish
[Jonathan William Anderson]
J.W Anderson and Loewe
Acting and Costume design
"Modernist who believes that gender is a dated concept"
2013: CD Loewe
2008: Established namesake label
Known for his designs dipped in irony: Eggshell heels, pigeon bag, car shaped dresses, unconventional material combinations but also brining a sense of young luxury to Loewe
On the nose Post Production//
KIM JONES
'British
[Kim Niklas Jones]
MASTER COLLABORATOR
Known to be the busiest designer in Fashion Currently
Revolutionary to streetwear , for his time at Louis Vuitton
2003: Established namesake label
2008: CD Dunhill
2011-2018: Style Director Louis Vuitton Menswear
2018: Dior Menswear
2020: Fendi Couture
Streetwear "Literally means clothes from the street"
ELEGANT INFORMALITY IN MENSWEAR
PIETER MULIER
'Belgian
Creative Director Alaia
Started his career with Raf Simons and is largely known for being his right hand during his career
2002: Joined Raf Simons
2006: Director of Accessories Jil Sander 2012: Joined Raf Simons at Dior
2015: Creative Director Calvin Klein
2021: Creative Director Alaia
Background in Architecture is visible in his sculpturally elegant design Language making him the perfect fit for a brand like Alaia which is known for the same
ANTHONY VACCARELLO
'Belgian-Italian
Creative Director Saint Laurent
Successor to Hedi Slimane- Continued Slimane's legacy at Saint Laurent
2016: Creative Director Saint Laurent
2014: Versus Versace
2008: Established his Namesake label
SEDUCTIVE MODERN RENDITIONS OF YSL
DANIEL ROSEBERRY
'American
Creative Director Schiaparelli
2008: Worked with Thom Browne for 11 Years
Bought the essence of Elsa Schiaparelli and the brand back to life
Bold and Surreal // Creates Art
2019: Creative Director Schiaparelli
Ironically Daniel Roseberry doesn't speak French and has never worked in a couture atelier before , somebody else communicates his ideas to the team or via sketches.
NIGO
'Japanese
[Tomoaki Nagao]
Nicknamed NIGO - Translates to number two referencing to the legendary Hiroshi Fujiwara (who was commonly called Number one in the streetwear industry) and Nigo's following in his footsteps
Designer, RJ, DJ, Entrepreneur, Record Producer Streetwear Pioneer// Creator of BAPE- A Bathing Ape
Currently: Artistic Director of Kenzo
90s HipHop Streetwear legend
KAWS Futura with Andy Warhol
NOWHERE in 1993 (A boutique that sold International streetwear) with Jun Takahashi and Hiroshi Fujiwara's support
With Pharrell- established Billionaire Boys Club and Ice Cream in 2005
2021: Joined Kenzo
BAPE in lukewarm water: Iconography from The Planet Of Apes - Japanese colloquialism/// Mocked the Opulence of Post War Japan
TAKAHIRO MIYASHITA
'Japanese
THE MAN BEHIND NUMBER(N)INE The (N) in nine stands for Nepenthes the store that influenced Miyashita's entry to fashion// And the Beatles' experimental track 'Revolution 9'
Enigmatic rebel in Fashion
Film, Architecture, Books and Music influences, Started Number (N)ine in 1997
Famously known to never look at the past especially his own archives
Number Nine became too huge of a brand for Miyashita to maintain sole creative control hence "The Soloist" An Attempt to stay aloof - "The Sole runner"
1997: Established Number (N)ine with no prior Fashion education
2004: First collection in Paris called “Give Peace a Chance.”
2009: Closed NN
2010: Started Takahiro Miyashita The Soloist
COLM DILLANE
'American
KIDSUPER
Film , Art, Multimedia Artist
Known for Unique presentation styles- as Stand Up shows, Miniature Street Acts, Art Auctions,
Also Printed his rejection letter to Paris Fashion Week on a dress for their Fall 2020 Collection
Brings positive energy, eclectic vibes to fashion
Started by screen printing tshirts in 2011
Guest Designed for Louis Vuitton menswear for Fall 2023
ALESSANDRO MICHELE
'Italian
RE ENERGISED GUCCI's DESIGN LANGUAGE
Retro//Whimsical//Vintage//Fantastical//Renaissance mix//
Background in Costume Design -
New narrative to originality
2002: Joined Gucci as an accessory designer and worked for the same till his appointment as creative director
2015: Appointed Creative Director of Gucci
Some iconic runways include AW18- Models walked with their own severed heads and his last collections which featured 68 pairs of identical twins
2022: Alessandro left Gucci
WALES BONNER
'British Jamaican
[Grace Wales Bonner]
Culturally significant take to luxury, Bringing Afro Atlantic spirit to the forefront of fashion
Menswear// Wardrobe essentials
2014: Established
Classic and tradtional takes on tailoring // References roots of identity and individuality in the society// Breathes new life into the conventional
JULIUS AND VICTOR JUUL
'Danish
Founders HELIOT EMIL
Julius Juul :Design
Victor Juul: Business
Subversive Structured Scandinavian
"INDUSTRIAL ELEGANCE"
Bōsōzoku (Customised motorcycles and biker culture)
Heliot Emil named after their grandfather
1st Show at Milan:Spring 2017
Julius Juul worked as art director at Calvin Klein , HoodByAir and Donda before establishing Heliot Emil
Futuristic//Utilitarian//Functional//
RICCARDO TISCI
'Italian
The Resurrector of Givenchy
Iconoclastic clothing
Established his own brand in 2004// Announced as Creative Director of Givenchy soon after
2005-2017 :Givenchy
2018-2022: Burberry
Dark//Bold//Feminine//Ritualistic
MATHIEU BLAZY
'Belgian
Creative Director Bottega Veneta
Started his career with Raf Simons//Went on to design for Maison Margiela (mainly responsible for the crystal masks Kanye wore during his Yeezus tour in 2013)
2014-2016: Worked with Phoebe Philo at Celine
2016-2019: Joined Raf Simons at Calvin Klein
2019: Joined Bottega Veneta as Design Director with Daniel Lee
2021 : Announced as the Creative director of Bottega Veneta after Daniel Lee's infamous departure
Craftsmanship//clothes that look architectural//resetting luxury//Leather genius (Especially in making leather not look like it's original appearance) // Geometricity and balance in design
CHITOSE ABE
'Japanese
FOUNDER SACAI
Urban // Contemporary Sportswear// Utility technical design genius
Started Sacai in 1999// worked with Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe in the beginning of her career
Three labels: Sacai, Sacai Luck and Sacai Man
First guest designer to design Jean Paul Gaultier's couture show : Fall 2021
VIRGIL ABLOH
'American Ghanaian
1980-2021
MOST INFLUENTIAL DESIGNER OF HIS TIME
Architect//DJ//Graphic Designer
First fashion endeavour was to take oversized deadstock flannels and screen print onto them
Fashion's most revered disruptor
Drew inspiration from the Youth to become an inspiration of the youth
Bought Black Talent Black culture to the forefront
2010: Art Director at Kanye's Donda
2012: Pyrex Vision
2013: Established Off White
2018: Appointed as Artistic Designer of Louis Vuitton Menswear
( The first African-American to be artistic director at a French luxury fashion house )
VISIONARY// CREATIVE GENIUS// MULTI TASKER// STREETWEAR
MARC JACOBS
'American
Bought grunge to the runway- transformed Louis Vuitton from a baggage label to the Luxury force it is today.
Established Namesake label: 1986
Louis Vuitton: 1997-2013
Perry Ellis: 1989-1993 (Fired because of the infamous grunge collection)
Known for artistic collaborations like Takashi Murakami, Richard Prince, Yayoi Kusama
UNAPOLOGETIC, ORIGINALITY, ECLECTIC
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
'French
[THE ENFANT TERRIBLE OF FASHION] Iconoclastic and cultural couture,
Hired by Pierre Cardin at 18 years old
1st Collection 1976- Unorthodox, " My Eccentricity is my guide" HUMOUR, PROVOCATIVE
LE MALE: 1993
Couture line: 1997
Hired by Hermes in 2003, post his own intern, Martin Margiela's run at the brand
Hermes years: 2023-2010
TOM FORD
'American
[Thomas Caryle Ford]
Designer and Filmmaker
Transformation of Gucci and YSL
SEX APPEAL IN FASHION
1994: Hired at Gucci when the brand was nearly bankrupt// Turned it into a billion dollar endeavour by 2004
Directed Oscar winning movie "A Single Man"
2006: Started his Namesake label
1999-2005: Creative Director YSL post Gucci's acquisation of the brand.
Chairman CFDA : 2019-2022
Writer: Nocturnal Animals
"Sophisticated SEX Appeal" "Provocative clothing" some of the best advertisements in the fashion industry date back to Tom Ford's Gucci era
JOHN GALLIANO
'British
[John Charles Galliano]
The controversial marvel of Fashion
Current creative head of Maison Margiela
1995-1996: CD Givenchy Couture
1996-2011: CD Christian Dior Couture
1988: First collection inspired by the French Revolution "Les Incroyables"
2011: Drunken Anti Semitic comments (Proceeded to get blacklisted from the industry, removed from Dior)
2014: Hired to Head Margiela as a chance to build a new identity for himself
Anna Wintour and André Leon Talley
Funded him through bankruptcy helping him stage his 1989 show in Paris, which bought him to the center stage
Sinister historical costume based garments // Extravagnt// Intricate// Layering// Deconstruction
THOM BROWNE
'American
MODERNIZING CONVENTIONAL UNIFORMS
"THE GREY SUIT"
Challenging traditional proportions in Formal dressing
2001: Established his own brand //He designed five suits that he wore himself and walked around New York City// Guerilla Advertising
2004: NYFW Debut
Master of Modern Tailoring
2023: Appointed as Chairman CFDA
MARINE SERRE
'French
Cultural references, Islamic Motif of the crescent moon, Sportswear infused modernwear
Changemaker- Driven by sustainability: Uses old bedsheets, Jeans, Recycled fabrics in her designs
Eco Futurism
Whimsy Athleticism// Heavily stylized clothing
The youngest designer to win the LVMH prize post her graduate collection "A Radical call for Love"
Official Beginning in 2018
GARETH PUGH
'British
FORM//VOLUME''STRUCTURE//PERFORMANCE ART
Costume designer
First solo show was Fall 2006// Brand backed by Michele Lamy
Interned with Rick Owens
Bought into the limelight after a piece from his graduate collection made its way to the Dazed 2003 cover
Dark Dystopian Silhouettes// The struggle between light and darkness// delving into the grey area between black and white
A.F VANDERVORST
'Belgian
[An Vandervorst and Filip Arickx]
Established in 1997
These in design- Horses , Red Cross, Uniform, Religion, Fetish fashion etc
Closed their brand in 2020 after 23 years of heavy influence in the industry.
Emotive and Nomadic
Nightfall, their Spring 1999 collection included models in a sleep like state in hospital beds
RICK OWENS
[Richard Saturnino Owens]
'American
Drkshdw, Rickowenslilies and Hunrickowens+ Furniture
established: 1994
1st Show: SS02
THE DARK LORD OF FASHION
MIUCCIA PRADA
[Miuccia Bianchi Prada] 'Italian
Mime Politics Fashion
UNIFORMS
PRADA GROUP: Creative Director MIU MIU
1st Show (Prada): 1988
1st Show (MiuMiu): 1993
MARTIN MARGIELA 'Belgian
Deconstructionist ; the art of the unfinished
MAISON IN SECRECY
Asst. to JPG till 1988
[namesake label]THE WHITE LABEL
1997-2003: Creative Director Hermès
Last show" Spring 2009
Left fashion: 2009
KARL [Karl Otto Lagerfeld] 'German Linguist Photographer Filmmaker CHANEL1982 - 2019 CHLOE FENDI
Most grand presentations Busiest/Work Ethic
Namesake label:1984 (later sold to Tommy H. in 2005) Pet: Choupette
Redefined historic brand codes
At Rest 19 February 2019
PETER DO 'Vietnamese
LVMH 2014, FIT, SUBTLE LUXURY Worked wth Phoebe Philo
Namesake label" 2018 Alongside friends
1st Show NYFW: 2021
2023: Creative Director Helmut Lang
JIL SANDER 'German
[Heidemarie Jiline Sander]
Minimalist established: 1968, Collection 1973.
1999:Prada acquisition
2000: Jil leaves due to disagreements, turbulent heirarchy post her departure
Namesake label head by- Luke and Lucie Miller
DONATELLA VERSACE
'Italian [Donatella Francesca Versace]
Socialite Entrepreneur Model
established: 1978(By Gianni Versace)
Donatella was appointed head of the brand Versus in 1994 and took over Versace post Gianni's death in 1997.
2018 Michael Kors(Capri Holdings) acquired the brand with the Versace family receiving 150 Million of purchase price in shares of capri holdings
Haider Ackermann 'Colombian
Ingenius Drapery a master of silhouettes
Namesake Label:2001.
(Fun Fact:Haider was one of the top students at the Royal Academy but was expelled in 1997 for not submitting assignments on time)
Berluti:2016
Guest Designer for Jean Paul in 2023
DEMNA 'Georgian
[Demna Gvasalia]
Irony Humour Exaggeration
Worked at Margiela:2009-2012
Founded Vetements
(French"Clothes) with Guram Gvasalia: 2014
2015: Joined Balenciaga .
2019:Leaves Vetements
2021:Brings back Balenciaga couture in it's true essence after 50 years
THE OLSEN TWINS 'American
{Mary-Kate and Ashley Fuller Olsen} THE ROW Suiting Street Coutue Flagbearers of Quiet Luxury
established: 2005, purpose:to create a perfect tshirt for themslelves
The Row offers exceptional quality, easy flowing luxurious clothing
JUNYA WATANABE 'Japanese
protégé of Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo
“monozukuri” is formed from the words “mono” (thing) and “zukuri” (to make, to manufacture, to grow) The creator creates and only the creations matter
established: 1992(CDG Umbrella)
Paris Collection 1993.
Ingenious Patternmaker, Techno utility and Punk creations
Dries Van Noten 'Belgian
[Baron Dries Van Noten ]
Member of the Antwerp Six established: 1986,
Eccentric aqnd whimsical print genius, Tailoring and layering, Menswear extraordinaire
Richard Stark 'American
Capentry Craftsmanship Chrome Hearts established: 1988 with Leonard Kamhout and John Bowman, Later Laurie Lynn
Chopper chicks in Zombietown
Sterling Silver + Leather Goods
REI KAWAKUBO 'Japanese
[Comme des Garçons]
コム・デ・ギャルソン
(Komu de Gyaruson) "like boys" in French.
WABI SABI: IMPERFECTION
1969: Comme des Garcons
Anti Fashion Genius, Questioning relationship between clothes and the body- Established Dover Street Market with husband Adrian Joffe in 2004
After starting as a freelance stylist in 1967,then established CDG
Paris Debut in 1981, disrupted fashion scene in Paris along with Yohji Yamamoto
Most famous collection Body Meets Dress–Dress Meets Body, for Spring 1997
Championed many Notable designers like Junya Watanabe and Noir Kei Ninomiya
JUN TAKAHASHI 'Japanese
[Known as the Godfather of Japanese Streetwear]
CULT CULTURE CINEMA
Rebellion and deconstruction
A new idea of beauty and romance in conventional streetwear Founder[UNDERCOVER] established: 1993
1st Show:1994
Vivienne Westwood 'British
[Dame Vivienne Isabel Westwood] 1941-2022
GODMOTHER OF PUNK
Religion Politics Sex "Underwear as Outerwear" Trash Art, Abstract ideas from the 17th-18th century
Clothing Store with Malcolm McLaren Let It Rock, in 1971 renamed SEX in 1974
1st Show: 1981 called "PIRATES"
Vivienne Westwood by Andreas Kronthaler (Partner designs under the brand's name) Since Fall 2016
Issey Miyake 'Japanese
[Miyake Kazumaru]
1938-2022
Dancing + Graphic Design
Technology Movement Fluidity Hope Surprise utmost Joy with clothingThe designer behoind Steve Jobs's infamous black turtlenecks and Sony factory uniforms
Miyake Design Studio established: 1970
Founder[PLEATS PLEASE] :1993
Helmut Lang 'Austrian
[Peter Scepka] Now Artist
MINIMALIST ESSENTIALIST
Bridged Literal Streetwear and High Fashion, Advertising and Collaborative genius
Combined Fashion+Art+Design
The Designer who destroyed his archives
New Uniforms
established: 1977
1st Show:1986
Acquired by Prada; 2005
Departure from Fashion:2005
OLIVIER THEYSKENS 'Belgian
{DEMICOUTURE}
Gothic Romance [famously called the Gothic Prince of Fashion]
Entered the industry in 1997 Reopened namesake label in 2016
Rochas: 2002-2006
Nina Ricci: 2006-10
Theory:2010-2014
SRULI RECHT 'Icelandic
{The most unconventional techniques in fashion}
“I was once asked to make pendant earrings out of someone’s testicles.” tells you enough
Infamously cut his own stomach skin to make a ring "Forget me Knot"
Credited for introducing Translucent Leather
Since 2011
OLIVIER ROUSTEING 'French
[Youngest Creative Director in Paris since YSL]
Creative Director of Balmain since 2011- Took over at 25 years old
Known for his opulent and Bold designs, biker pants, use of gold, grandeur embroidery and
ABUNDANT DESIGN APPROACH- Changed the trajectory of Balmain
CRAIG GREEN 'British
Innovaton and storytelling in menswear
Established in 2012-1st Solo collection: 2015
Gained momentum post his Graduate collection from Central Saint Martins
MATERIAL+CROSSING LIMITS OF FUNCTIONALITY+ FASHION MEETS EXPERIMENTAL ART
NICHOLAS GHESQUIERE 'French-Belgian
[The Revival of Balenciaga(1997-2012) ]
Head of Louis Vuitton Womenswear since 2013
Craftsmanship+Tailoring + Inspired by the 70s and credited for his originality in design
HUSSEIN CHALAYAN 'British-Cypriot-Turkish
[Science Art and Fashion Mix]
Established his studio in 1994- Graduate collection called "Tangent Flows" included decomposed rusted clothing with iron fillings.
Known for his exceptional innovation and groundbreaking intellect in design. Lauded for many now iconic ideas like the Table dress, dissolving clothing, laser beams in clothes and more. Synonymous with performance art, Urban architecture and conceptually and socially driven design
GLENN MARTENS 'Belgian
[Often called the Margiela of this Generation]
Creative Director: Y/Project, Diesel
Founded his own brand in 2012, soon after joined Yohan Serfaty of Y/Project only to take the reigns after Yohan's untimely passing and transforming the Rick Owensesque dystopian Y/P to what it's known for today. Known for his Genius with Denim , and his ability to balance Creative and Commercial.
Guest Designed Jean Paul Gaultier Couture - Spring 2022
A.F VANDERVORST 'Belgian
[An Vandervorst and Filip Arickx]
Established in 1997
These in design- Horses , Red Cross, Uniform, Religion, Fetish fashion etc
Closed their brand in 2020 after 23 years of heavy influence in the industry.
Emotive and Nomadic
Nightfall, their Spring 1999 collection included models in a sleep like state in hospital beds
CCP 'Austrian
[Carol Christian Poell]
DARING+ DESIGNS THAT STIMULATE YOUR MIND
Leather Making Vegan Cult Designer
Since 1995
Unimaginable Materials, Animal Hide, taxidermy, Teeth, Hair Blood are some examples of Poell's unconventional design approach.
NON CONFORMIST + EXCLUSIVE + SECRECY+ INDUSTRILIZED APPROACH TO HIS SKILL
Most Famous Presentation SS2004, Models, like Dead Bodies floated down Naviglio Grande, entitled
"Mainstream, Downstream"
ANN DEMEULEMEESTER 'Belgian
[Ann Verhelst]
THE DARK ROMANTICIST OF FASHION +A PART OF THE ANTWERP SIX
1985:Established 1991:1st show 2013: Departure
2020: Claudio Antonioli Bought the company and marked the return of Ann Demeulemeester as an Advisory director
Following which Sebastien Meunier took over transforming the Grunge-Bohemian brand to a refined classically beautiful language.
Punk Rebellion with Dark Femininity
Entered the world of ceramics and porcelain post leaving "Ann Demeulemeester Serax"
RAF SIMONS 'Belgian
[Raf Jan Simons]
Known for transforming brands- DIOR, JIL SANDER, CALVIN KLEIN AND MOST RECENTLY PRADA. Youth and cultural design references
Furniture Designer, Margiela and Helmut Lang influenced
Interned at Walter Van Bierendonck and attended the Margiela Spring 1990 Show which made him take a turn towards fashion designing
1995-2023: The Raf Simons Line
2005-2012:Jil Sander
2012-2015:Dior
2016-2018: Calvin Klein
2020- current: Prada
GRAPHIC DESIGN ANDROGYNY YOUTH CULTURE REFERENTIAL MUSIC DESIGNS
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN 'British
[Lee Alexander McQueen] 1969-2010
"THE GREATEST SHOWMAN"
The Shocking Performer of Fashion
Alchemist
Clothing that made you think, taboo, intellectual, Tackled Religious, Political, and Social issues
1992: Saville Row tailor at Anderson and Shepherd Rumoured to have embroidered 'I am a Cunt" into the lining of the suit for the Prince of Wales
Established 1992: When Isabella Blow(Fashion Editor credited for discovering McQueen) bought out his entire 1992 collection 'JACK THE RIPPER'
Givenchy: 1996-2001
2010: Spring 2010 was "Plato's Atlantis was Alexander's last collection
MARC JACOBS 'American
Bought grunge to the runway- transformed Louis Vuitton from a baggage label to the Luxury force it is today.
Established Namesake label: 1986
Louis Vuitton: 1997-2013
Perry Ellis: 1989-1993 (Fired because of the infamous grunge collection)
Known for artistic collaborations like Takashi Murakami, Richard Prince, Yayoi Kusama
UNAPOLOGETIC, ORIGINALITY, ECLECTIC
YOHJI YAMAMOTO 'Japanese
THE MASTER TAILOR
Anti Fashion / Non Traditionalist / Non Conformist / Beauty is imperfection
1972: Yohji Yamamoto first started designing clothes
1977:First RTW collection in Tokyo
1981: First collection in Paris (same year as his contemporary Rei Kawakubo // Masters of Anti Fashion)
Body of fabric in unconventional layers for all
"Avant Garde Tailoring"
WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK 'Belgian
Sex and Pleasure//Subversive
WVB VS SEX
Headed Fashion Design department at the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp until 2022
Part of the Antwerp Six
Established:1983
Graphically strong, visually communicative, evocative clothing, "ADVOCATE OF SAFE SEX"
Wild and Lethal Trash[W<] : 1993-1999
DISRUPTOR//CONVERSATIONS OF GENDER AND BEAUTY
THIERRY MUGLER 'French
[Manfred Thierry Mugler 1945-2022]
AVANT GARDE THEATRICS IN COUTURE ARCHITECTURAL CHOREOGRAPHY
1973 :Mugler
Retired officially in 2002
A champion for inclusivity and diversity "Fashion is beautiful, 3-D art on a human being. But it wasn't enough, which is why I went on to create in other ways.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER 'French
[THE ENFANT TERRIBLE OF FASHION] Iconoclastic and cultural couture,
Hired by Pierre Cardin at 18 years old
1st Collection 1976- Unorthodox, " My Eccentricity is my guide" HUMOUR, PROVOCATIVE
LE MALE: 1993
Couture line: 1997
Hired by Hermes in 2003, post his own intern, Martin Margiela's run at the brand
Hermes years: 2023-2010
PHARRELL WILLIAMS 'American
[Pharrell Lanscilo Williams // Rapper, Creative Director of Louis Vuitton]
THE TALK OF 2023
Successor to Virgil Abloh
Connected to LV collaboratively since 2004- Streetwear // popularized BAPE in the fashion scene
HEDI SLIMANE 'French
[THE BRAND TRANSFORMATOR]
Known for his distinct design language and transforming whichever brand he goes to.
Photographer
ROCKER CHIC// THE SKINNY SILHOUETTE UNAPOLOGETICALLY HIMSELF
Youth and Music
Responsible for Yves Saint Laurent to become Saint Laurent
CELINE: 2018- present
DIOR HOMME: 2000-2007
SAINT LAURENT:2012-2016
Saint Laurent Menswear: 1996-2000
MATTHEW M WILLIAMS 'American
1017 ALYX 9SM
Creative Director Givenchy
2015: 1017 ALYX 9SM
2020: Givenchy
2010: #BEEN #TRILL DJ collective alongside Heron Preston, Virgil Abloh, Justin Saunders, the mysterious YWP and Florencia Galarza
Matthew Williams's Stage Name "PRETTY BLANCO"
Worked with Kanye West and Lady Gaga in the beginning of his career that helped his rise to fame
Luxury Streetwear pioneer// Skate culture// Industrialist clothing//Military and Utility
JACQUEMUS 'French
[Simon Porte Jacquemus]
2009: Started his brand at 19// Named after his mother's maiden name to honour her memory
2011: Worked at the CDG store to finance his label
The spirit of Southern France// Child Like joyful energy in design// softer approach to concepts of deconstruction
Rose to fame post 2015 after winning a special prize at the LVMH prize and after their 2018 collection was taken on by most industry retailers.
known for his brilliant art direction and exhibitional approach + unique locations for fashion presentations (Lavender Fields, Palace of Versailles, Camargue salt flats)
TOM FORD 'American
[Thomas Caryle Ford]
Designer and Filmmaker
Transformation of Gucci and YSL
SEX APPEAL IN FASHION
1994: Hired at Gucci when the brand was nearly bankrupt// Turned it into a billion dollar endeavour by 2004
Directed Oscar winning movie "A Single Man"
2006: Started his Namesake label
1999-2005: Creative Director YSL post Gucci's acquisation of the brand.
Chairman CFDA : 2019-2022
Writer: Nocturnal Animals
"Sophisticated SEX Appeal" "Provocative clothing" some of the best advertisements in the fashion industry date back to Tom Ford's Gucci era
AZZEDINE ALAïA 'Tunisian
[1935-2017]
Currently creatively head by Pieter Miulier
Beauty in sculpturally crafted silhouettes
Couturier and Shoes designer known for doing everything on his own terms
BRUTAL HONESTY// INDEPENDENT DESIGN APPROACH
1980:Presented first Ready To Wear collection
Alaia was inspired by his twin sister's style , after her passing in 1992 Azzedine took a hiatus from mainstream fashion till 2011
Accentuated a woman's silhouette, empowering sensually.
MARTNE ROSE 'British Jamaican
Menswear Prodigy
Champion of Diversity
Established namesake label in 2007
Bringing the ordinary forward, complex approach of dailywear silhouettes Bringing different people in fashion together
WORKWEAR// RETRO PUNK//TECHNICAL FUNCTIONALITY
Worked with Demna for his Balenciaga debut in 2015 (Martine Rose's influence is highly visible in that collection)
Sneaker Monarch//First Creative director of Clarks-2023
PHOEBE PHILO 'British
Redefined the definition of luxury for women
CELINE: 2008-2018
CHLOE:1991-2006 // 2001-2006(CD)
Expecting her namesake label to drop by the end of the year
Practical luxury//Minimal and subtle // clean'' simplicity is the keynote to elegance//
Known to have inspired Peter Do, Daniel Lee and more
DSQUARED2 'Canadian\
[Dean and Dan Caten]
Radio Jockeys, Businessmen and Founders of Italian brand Dsquared2
Chaotic sexiness, Ironic, Edgy and whimsical, not to be taken seriously
Established:1994
JOHN GALLIANO 'British
[John Charles Galliano]
The controversial marvel of Fashion
Current creative head of Maison Margiela
1995-1996: CD Givenchy Couture
1996-2011: CD Christian Dior Couture
1988: First collection inspired by the French Revolution "Les Incroyables"
2011: Drunken Anti Semitic comments (Proceeded to get blacklisted from the industry, removed from Dior)
2014: Hired to Head Margiela as a chance to build a new identity for himself
Anna Wintour and André Leon Talley
Funded him through bankruptcy helping him stage his 1989 show in Paris, which bought him to the center stage
Sinister historical costume based garments // Extravagnt// Intricate// Layering// Deconstruction
MICHELE LAMY 'Alegerian French
Artist, Boxer, Collector, Curator
Rick Owens's wife // CoFounder Owenscorp
Known for her unconventional distinctive persona
Backed Gareth Pugh's label:2006
LAMYLAND: HER OWN WORLD
NOMAD// ENIGMA
Restaurateur+ Designer Owenscorp
KIKO KOSTADINOV 'Bulgarian British
Contemporary workwear// material fabrication// Menswear// Referential designs significant culturallry// Books and Movies // Military workwear
MA Collection Central Saint Martins: 2016
Appointed as CD for Mackintosh 0001
Womenswear in 2018: Head by Twins Laura and Deanna Fanning, Contrasting mens and womenswear
Stussy Asics collabs
Worked with Aitor Throup in the beginning
JONATHAN ANDERSON 'Irish
[Jonathan William Anderson]
J.W Anderson and Loewe
Acting and Costume design
"Modernist who believes that gender is a dated concept"
2013: CD Loewe
2008: Established namesake label
Known for his designs dipped in irony: Eggshell heels, pigeon bag, car shaped dresses, unconventional material combinations but also brining a sense of young luxury to Loewe
On the nose Post Production//
KIM JONES 'British
[Kim Niklas Jones]
MASTER COLLABORATOR
Known to be the busiest designer in Fashion Currently
Revolutionary to streetwear , for his time at Louis Vuitton
2003: Established namesake label
2008: CD Dunhill
2011-2018: Style Director Louis Vuitton Menswear
2018: Dior Menswear
2020: Fendi Couture
Streetwear "Literally means clothes from the street"
ELEGANT INFORMALITY IN MENSWEAR
THOM BROWNE 'American
MODERNIZING CONVENTIONAL UNIFORMS
"THE GREY SUIT"
Challenging traditional proportions in Formal dressing
2001: Established his own brand //He designed five suits that he wore himself and walked around New York City// Guerilla Advertising
2004: NYFW Debut
Master of Modern Tailoring
2023: Appointed as Chairman CFDA
PIETER MULIER 'Belgian
Creative Director Alaia
Started his career with Raf Simons and is largely known for being his right hand during his career
2002: Joined Raf Simons
2006: Director of Accessories Jil Sander 2012: Joined Raf Simons at Dior
2015: Creative Director Calvin Klein
2021: Creative Director Alaia
Background in Architecture is visible in his sculpturally elegant design Language making him the perfect fit for a brand like Alaia which is known for the same
ANTHONY VACCARELLO 'Belgian-Italian
Creative Director Saint Laurent
Successor to Hedi Slimane- Continued Slimane's legacy at Saint Laurent
2016: Creative Director Saint Laurent
2014: Versus Versace
2008: Established his Namesake label
SEDUCTIVE MODERN RENDITIONS OF YSL
DANIEL ROSEBERRY 'American
Creative Director Schiaparelli
2008: Worked with Thom Browne for 11 Years
Bought the essence of Elsa Schiaparelli and the brand back to life
Bold and Surreal // Creates Art
2019: Creative Director Schiaparelli
Ironically Daniel Roseberry doesn't speak French and has never worked in a couture atelier before , somebody else communicates his ideas to the team or via sketches.
NIGO 'Japanese
[Tomoaki Nagao]
Nicknamed NIGO - Translates to number two referencing to the legendary Hiroshi Fujiwara (who was commonly called Number one in the streetwear industry) and Nigo's following in his footsteps
Designer, RJ, DJ, Entrepreneur, Record Producer Streetwear Pioneer// Creator of BAPE- A Bathing Ape
Currently: Artistic Director of Kenzo
90s HipHop Streetwear legend
KAWS Futura with Andy Warhol
NOWHERE in 1993 (A boutique that sold International streetwear) with Jun Takahashi and Hiroshi Fujiwara's support
With Pharrell- established Billionaire Boys Club and Ice Cream in 2005
2021: Joined Kenzo
BAPE in lukewarm water: Iconography from The Planet Of Apes - Japanese colloquialism/// Mocked the Opulence of Post War Japan
MARINE SERRE 'French
Cultural references, Islamic Motif of the crescent moon, Sportswear infused modernwear
Changemaker- Driven by sustainability: Uses old bedsheets, Jeans, Recycled fabrics in her designs
Eco Futurism
Whimsy Athleticism// Heavily stylized clothing
The youngest designer to win the LVMH prize post her graduate collection "A Radical call for Love"
Official Beginning in 2018
TAKAHIRO MIYASHITA 'Japanese
THE MAN BEHIND NUMBER(N)INE The (N) in nine stands for Nepenthes the store that influenced Miyashita's entry to fashion// And the Beatles' experimental track 'Revolution 9'
Enigmatic rebel in Fashion
Film, Architecture, Books and Music influences, Started Number (N)ine in 1997
Famously known to never look at the past especially his own archives
Number Nine became too huge of a brand for Miyashita to maintain sole creative control hence "The Soloist" An Attempt to stay aloof - "The Sole runner"
1997: Established Number (N)ine with no prior Fashion education
2004: First collection in Paris called “Give Peace a Chance.”
2009: Closed NN
2010: Started Takahiro Miyashita The Soloist
COLM DILLANE 'American
KIDSUPER
Film , Art, Multimedia Artist
Known for Unique presentation styles- as Stand Up shows, Miniature Street Acts, Art Auctions,
Also Printed his rejection letter to Paris Fashion Week on a dress for their Fall 2020 Collection
Brings positive energy, eclectic vibes to fashion
Started by screen printing tshirts in 2011
Guest Designed for Louis Vuitton menswear for Fall 2023
ALESSANDRO MICHELE 'Italian
RE ENERGISED GUCCI's DESIGN LANGUAGE
Retro//Whimsical//Vintage//Fantastical//Renaissance mix//
Background in Costume Design -
New narrative to originality
2002: Joined Gucci as an accessory designer and worked for the same till his appointment as creative director
2015: Appointed Creative Director of Gucci
Some iconic runways include AW18- Models walked with their own severed heads and his last collections which featured 68 pairs of identical twins
2022: Alessandro left Gucci
WALES BONNER 'British Jamaican
[Grace Wales Bonner]
Culturally significant take to luxury, Bringing Afro Atlantic spirit to the forefront of fashion
Menswear// Wardrobe essentials
2014: Established
Classic and tradtional takes on tailoring // References roots of identity and individuality in the society// Breathes new life into the conventional
GARETH PUGH 'British
FORM//VOLUME''STRUCTURE//PERFORMANCE ART
Costume designer
First solo show was Fall 2006// Brand backed by Michele Lamy
Interned with Rick Owens
Bought into the limelight after a piece from his graduate collection made its way to the Dazed 2003 cover
Dark Dystopian Silhouettes// The struggle between light and darkness// delving into the grey area between black and white
JULIUS AND VICTOR JUUL 'Danish
Founders HELIOT EMIL
Julius Juul :Design
Victor Juul: Business
Subversive Structured Scandinavian
"INDUSTRIAL ELEGANCE"
Bōsōzoku (Customised motorcycles and biker culture)
Heliot Emil named after their gradfather
1st Show at Milan:Spring 2017
Julius Juul worked as art director at Calvin Klein , HoodByAir and Donda before establishing Heliot Emil
Futuristic//Utilitarian//Functional//
RICCARDO TISCI 'Italian
The Resurrector of Givenchy
Iconoclastic clothing
Established his own brand in 2004// Announced as Creative Director of Givenchy soon after
2005-2017 :Givenchy
2018-2022: Burberry
Dark//Bold//Feminine//Ritualistic
MATHIEU BLAZY 'Belgian
Creative Director Bottega Veneta
Started his career with Raf Simons//Went on to design for Maison Margiela (mainly responsible for the crystal masks Kanye wore during his Yeezus tour in 2013)
2014-2016: Worked with Phoebe Philo at Celine
2016-2019: Joined Raf Simons at Calvin Klein
2019: Joined Bottega Veneta as Design Director with Daniel Lee
2021 : Announced as the Creative director of Bottega Veneta after Daniel Lee's infamous departure
Craftsmanship//clothes that look architectural//resetting luxury//Leather genius (Especially in making leather not look like it's original appearance) // Geometricity and balance in design
CHITOSE ABE 'Japanese
FOUNDER SACAI
Urban // Contemporary Sportswear// Utility technical design genius
Started Sacai in 1999// worked with Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe in the beginning of her career
Three labels: Sacai, Sacai Luck and Sacai Man
First guest designer to design Jean Paul Gaultier's couture show : Fall 2021
VIRGIL ABLOH 'American Ghanaian
1980-2021
MOST INFLUENTIAL DESIGNER OF HIS TIME
Architect//DJ//Graphic Designer
First fashion endeavour was to take oversized deadstock flannels and screen print onto them
Fashion's most revered disruptor
Drew inspiration from the Youth to become an inspiration of the youth
Bought Black Talent Black culture to the forefront
2010: Art Director at Kanye's Donda
2012: Pyrex Vision
2013: Established Off White
2018: Appointed as Artistic Designer of Louis Vuitton Menswear
( The first African-American to be artistic director at a French luxury fashion house )
VISIONARY// CREATIVE GENIUS// MULTI TASKER// STREETWEAR
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DESIGNER
RICK OWNES 1923
EST BY RICK OWENS PARIS,
AMERICAM
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FFTY(50+) PROFILES
FASHION FOR THE YOUTH © ESTABLISHED 2020
FASHION FOR THE YOUTH © ESTABLISHED 2020
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